Bills Surry Hills

Editorial Review

Bills in Surry Hills is the middle child of Bill Granger's restaurant franchise, but by no means is it starved of attention. It does differ somewhat to the other Woollahra and Darlinghurst restaurants in that the menu has gone beyond lunch and into the realm of dinner. Whatever you've heard about Bills, however, everyone knows that the menu blurs the lines between breakfast, lunch and dinner, making brunch the most stylish meal of the day for fashionable Sydney diners. The standout favourites have been determined since their debut more than a decade ago. Scrambled eggs will leave you gob-smacked at the complexity of a texture which fuses rich cream with airy fluffiness. The ricotta hotcakes with fresh banana and drizzled with honeycomb syrup will momentarily take you to heaven and back.

If you dare abandon the brunch phenomenon and venture in at night time, the polished team of chefs and waitstaff continue to delight with a super fresh and modern dinner menu. Start lightly with a pea, fetta, pistachio and mint salad. Then perhaps move on to the prawn, mussel and snapper braised with tomato, fennel and garlic croutons. Finish with Bills chocolate pudding with chocolate sauce and cream and wash it all down with a classic Australian drop. With a reputation to uphold and with history on its side you can pretty much be certain that everything on offer will be downright yum. Although this smart eatery is similar to its sisters with its menu, open plan kitchen and light wooden tones, it has evolved into a more citified venue which makes it a top-notch restaurant in its own right.

Annabel Wise, May 2008

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